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Apulia: A Journey Through History, Wine and Olives

Apulia, the "heel" of Italy, looks back on a millennia-old history closely intertwined with agriculture, viticulture and trade. From ancient civilizations to the Normans and Hohenstaufens, many cultures have left their mark — influences that continue to shape the wines and cuisine of the region to this day.

Agenda

🏛️ History

The contested gateway of the Mediterranean

💼 Economy

Between tradition and new beginnings

🌿 Ecology

Sun, concerns and pioneers

🍷 Wine World

From mass production to cult classic

🫒 Olive Oil & Cuisine

The liquid gold of Apulia

🎖️ OEVE & Al Bano Carrisi

A member introduces himself

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History of Apulia – The Contested Gateway to the Mediterranean

Due to its geographical position as a bridge to the Balkans and the Orient, Apulia was a historical hotspot for millennia. Anyone who wanted to control the Mediterranean had to control Apulia.

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Magna Graecia

From the 8th century BC, Greeks colonized the coastlines. Taranto became one of the most powerful cities of the ancient world – the origin of the deeply rooted tradition of wine and olive cultivation.

2

The Romans and the Via Appia

For Rome, Apulia was the springboard to the East. The famous Via Appia ended at the port of Brindisi – the starting point for legions and merchants heading to Greece and Asia.

3

Normans and Hohenstaufens

In the 11th century, the Normans conquered the region. It reached its zenith under Frederick II in the 13th century – who left behind the world-famous Castel del Monte.

Baroque and Coastal Watchtowers

A network of coastal watchtowers was built as protection against Ottoman raids. Spanish influence brought a unique flowering of ornate Baroque architecture in the 17th century – most notably in Lecce.

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Economy of Apulia – Between Tradition and Transformation

Economically, Apulia was long considered part of the structurally weak "Mezzogiorno." Yet the region has developed into one of the most dynamic engines of southern Italy.

The Agricultural Powerhouse

Around 40–50% of all Italian olive oil comes from Apulia. Centuries-old Frantoi Ipogei (underground oil mills) and historic masserias define the tradition. In wine, the region has made the leap to internationally award-winning premium vintages.

Industrial Axis Bari–Brindisi–Taranto

One of Europe's largest steel plants is located in Taranto; Bari and Brindisi serve as centers for the aerospace industry (suppliers for Boeing and Airbus), mechanical engineering, and pharmaceuticals.

IT and Innovation Boom

Bari has developed into a notable tech hub. Highly skilled engineers and IT specialists are increasingly attracting international software and consulting companies.

Quality Tourism

The focus is on the restoration of historic masserias, agritourism, and cultural holidays – rather than mass tourism resorts along the coast.

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Ecology of Apulia – Sun, Concerns, and Pioneers

Apulia's nature is breathtaking, but in the 21st century it faces monumental challenges that are fundamentally transforming the face of the region.

Ecological Crisis

Extent of the Destruction

Over 21 million olive trees are affected or at risk. Entire landscapes that have shaped Apulia's image since antiquity have been turned into ghost forests of withered trunks.

Economic & Cultural Damage

Olive farming is the backbone of Apulian agriculture. The loss threatens thousands of family farms, drastically reduces olive oil production, and endangers a millennia-old cultural heritage.

Research & Resistant Varieties

Scientists are working at full speed. The variety Favolosa (FS-17) shows promising resistance and is being used for new plantings in affected areas.

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The Water Crisis & the Acquedotto Pugliese

Europe's Engineering Achievement

Apulia has almost no rivers or large lakes and has historically suffered from extreme water scarcity. The solution is one of the most impressive infrastructure achievements of the 20th century.

The Problem: No Water in the South

Apulia is the driest region in Italy. Without natural rivers or lakes, water supply was an existential challenge for agriculture and the population for centuries.

The Solution: Acquedotto Pugliese

For over 100 years, the Acquedotto Pugliese has been transporting drinking water from the mountains of Campania and Basilicata across hundreds of kilometers to the driest south – all the way to Leuca at the tip of the boot.

Today: Climate Change as a New Threat

Climate change is worsening the situation: longer droughts, falling groundwater levels, and rising temperatures make modern water policy a matter of survival.

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Pioneer in Renewable Energy

Italy's Green South

Apulia hasn't just followed the energy transition – the region is leading it. Thanks to sun and wind, Apulia today produces more green electricity on balance than it consumes itself.

3,500 MW

Solar Energy

Installed photovoltaic capacity, one of the highest in all of Italy

3,680 MW

Wind Energy

Apulia is Italy's leading region for wind power

#1

Italy's Top Performer

More green electricity produced than consumed – an energy balance hardly any other region achieves

The flat landscape, the intense solar radiation, and the constant winds from the Adriatic and Ionian Seas make Apulia an ideal location for renewable energy. The region is thus not only an ecological pioneer, but also an economic winner of the energy transition.

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Marine Conservation & Biodiversity

Protecting 800 km of Coastline

With over 800 kilometers of coastline between the Adriatic and Ionian Sea, protecting the marine ecosystem is one of Apulia's central ecological challenges.

Torre Guaceto – The Flagship Project

The Torre Guaceto marine reserve demonstrates how sustainable tourism, gentle fishing practices, and the protection of migratory birds and sea turtles can successfully go hand in hand. Fishermen, conservationists, and tourists work together here.

Endangered Species & Habitats

The Apulian coastlines are home to sea turtles (Caretta caretta), dolphins, Posidonia seagrass meadows, and rare migratory birds. The protection of this biodiversity is closely linked to the preservation of fishing and tourism.

Sustainable Tourism as a Solution

Apulia focuses on gentle coastal tourism rather than mass tourism. Small coves, nature parks, and marine reserves attract nature-conscious travelers – while simultaneously protecting the ecosystem.

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40–50% of all Italian olive oil

Liquid Gold – Apulia's Olive Oil Culture

Apulia is not only Italy's largest wine producer – above all, it is the nation's olive garden. Since antiquity, ancient olive trees have shaped the landscape and the soul of the region.

The Most Important Olive Varieties

  • Coratina: The queen of Apulian varieties. Extremely high polyphenol content, intensely bitter and pungent flavor – a sign of the highest quality and health benefits.
  • Ogliarola Salentina: Mild, fruity, golden yellow – the classic everyday variety of Salento.
  • Cellina di Nardò: Finely aromatic, slightly bitter, typical of the deep south of Apulia.

The Frantoi Ipogei – Underground Olive Mills

Centuries before modern times, underground olive mills (Frantoi Ipogei) were carved into the rock in Apulia. The constant temperature beneath the earth was ideal for pressing. Many of these facilities are still preserved today and can be visited – a unique cultural heritage.

The Masserias – Soul of Apulian Agriculture

The historic farmsteads (Masserias) were for centuries the heart of olive oil and wine production. Today many are run as agriturismos, combining tradition with modern quality tourism.

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Apulia's Wine World: From Bulk Wine to Cult Classic

Apulia is undergoing a transformation – and what has happened here over the last two decades is best described as a "quality revolution." Let's forget the days of faceless bulk wines. Today, the heel of the boot shows what its ancient vines are truly capable of.

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DOCG Areas

The absolute pinnacle of quality in Apulia

28

DOC Zones

Controlled designations of origin in the region

800

km of Coastline

Unique terroir between the Adriatic and Ionian Sea

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When the North Needed the South – Puglia's Secret Role

For decades, Puglia was the "silent savior" of European wine trade. In weak vintages, entire trains loaded with wine barrels rolled out of Brindisi, Taranto, and Barletta heading north to Italy and France – an open secret among insiders.

The Problem in the North

In cold or rainy vintages, wines from Piedmont, Tuscany, or Bordeaux lacked the necessary color, alcohol, and tannin structure. The wines appeared thin and acidic.

Rescue from the South

Primitivo and Negroamaro ripened reliably under the Mediterranean sun: 15–16% ABV, deep dark (almost black) color, enormous density. A small percentage was enough to "pump up" a pale Bordeaux or thin Chianti in the barrel.

The Affected Regions

  • Bordeaux & Languedoc: After the phylloxera plague, French merchants bought up Puglian wine in bulk and sold it as French red wine.
  • Tuscany (Chianti): Primitivo or Negroamaro lent the Sangiovese its chocolate note and the necessary body.
  • Piedmont (Barolo, Barbaresco): Blending with Puglian wine was common practice among wholesalers in Turin and Verona for decades.

The Turning Point – The Pride of Puglian Winemakers

The most famous example of this transformation is wine pioneer Cosimo Taurino from Guagnano in the Salento. For years he watched as the powerful wines from his family were transported north in tank wagons, only to disappear anonymously into expensive bottles bearing famous labels.

In the 1970s he said: "Enough of this!" He began bottling his top Negroamaro himself and marketing it internationally. This gave rise to the legendary Notarpanaro – and an entire movement of Puglian winemakers who finally gave their wines a name of their own.

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The Quality System: The 4 DOCG Crown Jewels

Puglia currently holds 4 DOCG areas (the absolute pinnacle of quality) and 28 DOC zones. In addition, IGP/IGT wines (such as Tarantino or Salento) play an enormous role, as they give producers more freedom in crafting modern premium wines.

① Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale DOCG

The region's only DOCG dessert wine. A monumental, opulent sweet wine made from late-harvested, vine-dried Primitivo grapes.

② Castel del Monte Bombino Nero DOCG

A fresh, characterful rosé wine made from the autochthonous variety Bombino Nero, grown around the famous Hohenstaufen castle in the north.

③ Castel del Monte Nero di Troia Riserva DOCG

A powerful, age-worthy red wine with plenty of tannin and structure, made from the native variety Nero di Troia.

④ Castel del Monte Rosso Riserva DOCG

An elegant red cuvée dominated by the Nero di Troia grape variety – with great aging potential.

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The Three Red Kings of Puglia

When we talk about Apulian red wine, almost everything revolves around three autochthonous grape varieties that define the character of the region:

Primitivo – The Crowd Favourite

Powerful, velvety, high in alcohol (often 14–15%+) with a subtle residual sweetness. Aromas of ripe dark berries, plum compote, chocolate and cinnamon. Genetically identical to California's Zinfandel.

Negroamaro – The Soul of Salento

Deep, dark and spicy wines with notes of blackcurrant, Mediterranean herbs, tobacco and a characteristic bitter finish. Also responsible for phenomenal, full-bodied rosatos.

Nero di Troia – The Elegant Aristocrat

Often underestimated, yet it produces the most elegant red wines of Puglia. Late-ripening, with firm tannins, good acidity and a fascinating bouquet of violets, liquorice and dark cherries.

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And What Do You Drink Right There? (Around San Vito)

Here in the upper Salento (Province of Brindisi) we are strategically perfectly positioned in the triangle between Negroamaro and Primitivo.

Brindisi DOC

Mainly Negroamaro, often blended with a little Malvasia Nera. Wonderfully honest, spicy everyday companions that pair excellently with the local cuisine of tomatoes, olive oil, and grilled meats.

Ostuni DOC – A True Rarity

To the northwest of Brindisi you encounter an absolute specialty: the Ostuni DOC, famous for rare white wines made from the varieties Impigno and Francavidda. A true rarity in this red wine country!

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Culinary & Food Pairing: What Do You Eat with Apulian Wine?

Apulia's cuisine is as honest and powerful as its wines – sparse in ingredients, rich in flavor. The local specialties are the perfect companions to a glass of wine.

Orecchiette con cime di rapa

Apulia's national dish: hand-shaped ear pasta with turnip greens, garlic, anchovies, and olive oil. Classic alongside a Primitivo or a robust Negroamaro.

Burrata di Andria

The creamy queen of Apulian cheese – mozzarella on the outside, liquid cream on the inside. Perfect with a fresh Negroamaro rosato or a light white wine from the Ostuni DOC.

Puccia

The traditional Apulian flatbread made from durum wheat semolina, filled with everything the region has to offer: olives, capers, tomatoes, grilled meat. The ideal companion to a simple Brindisi DOC.

Frantoio Olive Oil & Taralli

Freshly pressed olive oil (Coratina, Ogliarola) with crispy taralli – the Apulian ring-shaped pastry. Paired with a glass of Primitivo di Manduria: the simplest and most beautiful combination in the region.

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The Viticultural Heavyweight & OEVE Member: Al Bano Carrisi

The Promise to His Father

Al Bano comes from a deeply rooted Apulian farming family. Before he set out in the 1960s to conquer the world of music, he made a promise to his father Carmelo: "I will leave to become a singer, but I will return to build you a winery."

He kept his word. Today, the estate Tenute Al Bano Carrisi produces outstanding wines that are awarded prizes worldwide. The most famous cuvée – a powerful red made from Primitivo and Negroamaro – is named in memory of his father, simply and movingly, "Don Carmelo".

A Knightly Brother in Spirit: OEVE

Al Bano Carrisi is a proud member of our Ordo Equestris Vini Europae (OEVE). As an Eques de Vino, he is committed, just like us, to preserving wine culture, honoring traditions, and fostering international understanding through wine.

In Honorem Dei et Honorem Vini!

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"Puglia is no longer a hidden gem – it is a discovery that must be shared with others."

We thank you for your attention and look forward to the discussion over a glass. May this evening bring Puglia a little closer – its history, its wines, its olive oil and its people.

In Honorem Dei et Honorem Vini!

Ordo Equestris Vini Europae – Commandery Tenerife

Written by Kurt · OEVE Member

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Thank You for Listening & Joining In!

Did you enjoy the journey through Apulia? I welcome suggestions, questions, and of course new contacts around wine, olive oil, and the beautiful heel of Italy!

Networking

Ordo Equestris Vini Europae – Commandery Tenerife

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Kurt Helmut Mogy - Italia | Puerto de la Cruz

Kurt Helmut Mogy - Italia, Puerto de la Cruz. Ich geniesse die Kulinarik und die entspannte Lebensweise Süditaliens: L'italianità

"Wine connects people – across borders, cultures, and generations."

Kurt · OEVE Member

Commandery Tenerife

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